First Tattoo

Thinking of getting a Tattoo for my birthday.  I am a bit old for a first Tattoo.  I do not know anyone my age that has a Tattoo, so in some ways it seems a bit odd.

I am not sure what my motivation is.  I do know that there are some stained glass patterns that make me very happy when I see them.  I like the geometry and simplicity.  It occurred to me that it would be nice to see something like that on my wrist.

I am not sure how one goes about doing this.  I have not seen too many examples that hit the mark.  Perhaps if I provide some examples of what I am thinking a Tattoo artist may be able to guide me through the process.

I am thinking of something 1.5″x3″ on the inside of my wrist/forearm.

Here are some images I find compelling.

Tree of Life, Frank Lloyd Wright, 1904.

5F62575B-F9C7-4DCB-B5A3-EEC203495F96[1]download

Coonley Playhouse Window, Frank Lloyd Wright, 1912.

C0CB21F7-C807-45FF-A6FC-4FE3B3FA55DC[1]coonley-playhouse-glass-original

Martin House Interior Window, Frank Lloyd Wright, 1905.

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Dana House Dining Room Window, Frank Lloyd Wright, 1899.

download (1)9b187495641d9cd7c35870d3f843d109

(The Tattoo is much larger than what I am interested in)

Dana House Autumn Sumac, Frank Lloyd Wright,

8335-frank-lloyd-wright-autumn-stained-glass-450x550danawindow2

Willits House Sky Light, Frank Lloyd Wright, 1901

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Brinsmeade House?  Frank Lloyd Wright

fe73d92e64953f42fb6bd4dd50e7b12a

Barton House Window, Frank Lloyd Wright, 1903.

wright_barton_house_stained_glass

Robie House, Frank Lloyd Wright,

90053a450f7ad25138d291526ff2bbe72c31 (This has heavier lines than I was thinking, also would like a bit of color)

Hollyhock House skylight, Frank Lloyd Wright, 1923.

frank-lloyd-wright-four-leaded-glass-skylights-from-the-hollyhock-house-circa-1923

Charles Rene Macintosh Inspired Mirrors:

glasgow-art-school-rosebud-pink-and-frost-for-home-pagemackintosh_art_nouveau_black_and_ivoryrose-and-lattice-pink-rose

Thorsen House, Greene & Greene

6991_1-e1304095825883c0e3f684832ec7e4193dc574821aac55

I find the geometry and line weight of these Tattoos pretty amazing:

minimal-arrows-and-circles1638d14cb8e83833c2fc7775a59fc2b8c21eb5eeaa38e44c2cc7325a9fcfd4db12105155_791157927660307_1703317077_n

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Arduino & MC-60 Motor Controller

I am trying to figure out how I can use an Arduino to run an MC-60 Motor Controller.

Lets backup  a little and describe how I got here.

I own a Mikron 79 gear hob.  It arrived without a motor.  The manual lists three different motors that were shipped with the machine:

  • 0.25hp 980 rpm
  • 0.4hp 2,800 rpm
  • 0.3/0.5hp 1,400/2,800rpm

Then the manual lists 7 different pulley sizes that can be put on the motor.  So I am confused.  I figure the best route is to find a variable speed motor and then figure it out later.

I looked at a 0.5hp 3 phase motor and VFD and realized I am looking at $100-$200 to set that up.  I am too cheap for that.

Another option I have looked into in the past was a variable speed DC motor salvaged from a treadmill.  Craigslist led me to a free treadmill with a 1.5hp motor, a MC-60 controller, and a PB-121 power supply.

annotated_zpsc2niukob

Can I set up an Arduino to measure the speed of the motor (the treadmill came with a reed sensor and I have a hall effect sensor) and feed a signal to the MC-60 to have it maintain a desired speed?

I found may references to Arduino and MC-60 on the web, but none provided a definitive description on how to get them to work together.  Just lots of questions and suggestions.

I did connect a potentiometer to the MC-60 and get the motor to spin up.  Documentation leads me to believe that the MC-60 is designed to work with a 5k potentiometer.  The signal is supposed to be 0-12 volts.

The obvious route is to use a digital potentiometer.  I found some inexpensive digital pots that can work with 5 volts.  The expensive digital pot that works with 12 volts came in 20k, 50k or 200k ohms variations.  Could not find anything that had 5k ohm and was rated for 12 volts.

Then it occurred to me that there must be a digital potentiometer in the console or on the power supply to feed a signal to the MC-60.

Looking at the connector on the PB-121 board I see the following:

drawing2_zpsdjyacrl5

It kind of makes sense to me that an opto-coupling transistor is used to isolate the PB-121 from the MC-60.  I would certainly want that isolation on my Arduino.

Here is the schematic for the 4N35

schematic_zpssvkes2to

When I don’t understand things I stall for time and draw pictures.  So here is my drawing of the circuit above:

mc60-control_zpsj4m8ogfx

The schematic states that there is 12 volts between the red and black lines and 0-12 volts between the blue and black lines.

The following is what I infer is going on with this circuit:

When current flows to the transistor, then the red and blue lines are connected.  At this time there would be 12 volts between the blue and black wires.  (Or at least the blue/black circuit looks the same as the red/black circuit)

When there is no current to the transistor, then the red and blue lines are not connected and there is 0 volts between the blue and black wires.

If the PWM signal into the transistor is at 50% then the average voltage between the blue and black wires would be 6 volts.

I don’t know what the two resistors do.  For now I will assume that they are part of the analog circuit magic to even out the signal.

Does this make sense to someone smarter than I?

Do I just blindly pull the components off the circuit board and move them to my Arduino?

What is the voltage I need to apply to the Anode/Cathode to get this to work?  Will 5 or 3.3 volts do the job?  Or is the current important and I need to put a resistor in the circuit to produce the desired current?

Is there something I am missing?

What frequency should I use for the PWM?

 

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Teardrop Rental: Oregon

So my questions is, where in Oregon can I rent a Tear Drop Trailer?

Well, I found a place in Pennsylvania that rents them…

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Teardrop Trailer: Manufacturers

Manufacturer Websites

These are all the manufacturers and models I can find that meet my minimum specs (on first glance).  My demand for a queen sized mattress seems to eliminate many models and manufacturers.

American Teardrop, Auburn CA

  • Merlin 5×9
  • Falcon 5×8
  • Eagle 5×10

Big woody

  • Absolutely no specifications for the trailers on the site
  • No idea where they are located
  • Sell trailers, kits and plans

Camp-Inn, Necedah WI

  • 500
  • 550
  • 560

Colorado Teardrops, Boulder CO

  • Basecamp
  • Canyonland

Cozy Cruiser, Springfield OR

  • Williamette
  • McKenzie
  • Columbia

DNM Teardrop Trailers, Eugene OR

  • 5×8
  • 5×10

High Camp Trailers, Portland OR

  • High Camp

Juno Custom Tear Drops, Lubbock TX

  • Richard
  • Niecy
  • Kathy
  • Rick
  • Steve
  • Little Juno
  • Ellen

Little Fox Camper, Muskegon MI

  • Little Fox Teardrop

Little Guy, Massillon OH

  • Lite
  • Little Guy
  • Silver Shadow
  • Off Road
  • Website pretty much devoid of specifications

Moby1 Trailers, Springville UT

  • Too small, but good looking designs

NestEgg Trailers, Costa Mesa CA

  • Nestegg

North Coast Teardrops, Portland OR

  • 5×8
  • 5×10

OC Teardrop Trailers, Laguna Niguel CA

  • 5×8
  • 5×10

Orama Teardrop Trailers, Olympia WA

  • Cascade 5×8

Oregon Trail’R, Eugene OR

  • FronTear
  • Website devoid of trailer specifications

RetroRide Teardrops, Plover WI

  • 5×8
  • 5×10

River Rim, ?? CO

  • I don’t like companies that refuse to disclose their location, what are they trying to hide?
  • 5 models, pretty much no specifications at all

Sierra Madre Tear Drop Trailers, Sierra Madre CA

  • 5×8
  • 5×10

Silver Tears Campers, Roanoke VA

  • Silver Cub

Small Home Oregon, Portland OR

  • 5x

So-Cal Teardrops, Upland CA

  • Cal Deluxe

Tear Drops NW, Salem OR

  • Sojourn Plus
  • The Epic

TC Teardrops, ??? WI

  • Another company hiding their location.
  • 5×10

Three Feathers Mfg, La Grande OR

  • PineCone (too small, but looks good)

Treeline Teardrop Trailers, Petaluma CA

  • Sierra
  • Cal Deluxe
  • Looks a lot like So-Cal Teardrops??

Vistabule, St Paul MN

  • Vistabule
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Teardrop Trailer: Requirements

So, I am thinking about getting a teardrop trailer.

Gidget-Teardrop-Trailer-camping-001

I think it would be a good idea to start with the requirements.

  • Dry Weight: 1200lbs max.
  • Loaded Weight: 1900lbs max.
  • Tongue Weight: 200lbs max.
  • Bed size: Queen, 60″x80″ or 5’x6’8″
  • Bed quality: a real mattress, not a foam pad in many sections.
  • Battery power.
  • Sink: 15 gallon fresh water minimum.
  • Gas Burners: 2
  • Cooler: 20 gallon minimum.
  • Storage: somewhere above pillow, for CPAP.
  • Bluetooth speakers.
  • USB ports for phone/ipad charging.

Things I have seen that I like:

  • Torsion axles.  Less ground clearance required.
  • Electric brakes.  Although I am not sure I am ready to wire a controller into the car.
  • Minimal amounts of plastic: linoleum, Formica, PVC paneling, etc.
  • Large windows on door for maximum ventilation.
  • Rear hatch headroom: 6’4″ person can walk around and under it without hitting their head.

Ideas I kind of like, but am not sure exist:

  • All drawers in galley area should be easy to lift off and carry into the house for packing, unpacking.
  • Inside storage should also integrate some kind of container that can easily be moved into the house for packing/unpacking.
  • Be nice if there was a way to add an awning, or vestibule to provide shelter over the door(s).

Questions I have:

  • To where does the sink drain?  Do they have grey water tanks?  Does it drain onto the ground?  Does it drain into a bucket that you then haul off and dump?
  • When I come back from a hike and have a wet raincoat and muddy boots; what do I do with them as I get into the trailer?  I see myself opening the door, taking off my coat, sitting in the doorway, taking off my boots, and then what?  I don’t want to bring them inside, they are wet and muddy.  I don’t want to leave them outside…
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Rockwell 21-120 V-Belt Search

In order to restore my Rockwell Horizontal Milling Machine I will need to get a motor mount, motor, pulley and another v-belt.

Here is what I can find out about the v-belt.

The Mill manual shows this as: Cat. #49-084.

Fortunately there are two belts on this machine and they are both the same.  I already have one of them.

IMG_1095

Unfortunately the belt I have has no manufacturer markings on it, so I cannot learn much from it.  It also looks like I need to remove the jack shaft pulley in order to remove and measure the belt.  The belt looks very narrow.

Googling the part number pulls up a NATO Stock Number of 3030-01-218-6698.

This in turn maps to a Gates 7M730, or a Delta International 49-084.

This tells me it is a Gates 7mm PolyFlex belt.  9/32″ wide (looks right), ribbed back, 730mm long.

I wish I could find this belt on the Gates website (the parts search function is not working this afternoon).  The best I can find so far is this Product Application Notes pdf.

It appears this is also a Bando 7M730 belt.

The Gates belt appears to be widely available on Amazon, eBay and other sites.

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New Mill: Rockwell Horizontal Milling Machine 21-120.

This week I managed to locate and purchase a new milling machine.  A Rockwell International 21-120.

IMG_1093 IMG_1094

This will take some work to bring back to life.  It is missing the motor, mount, arbor arm support and all tooling.  A previous owner converted it to a Vertical mill by mounting a Rusnok milling head to the arbor support arm.

I plan on using the Rusnok head until I can locate and mount a Bridgeport M head on the system.  This is the conversion I would like to emulate.

For now this is sitting in the garage until I can find the time to dismantle it an move to the basement.  Having moved a South Bend 10″ lathe down the basement stairs I am very confident that this will not make the trip safely in one piece.

On one hand I want to wait until warmer weather so I can dismantle and paint the mill before moving.  On the other hand I would hate to see it languish in the corner of the garage for 4 months.

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